I bought a Flixy TV Stick a couple of months in the past. I hadn’t had one for some time, but I used to be ready to make a home theater at the time of purchase. I already had a 3.1 audio system prepared, with a 4K succesful Yamaha receiver. Not to say, a trusty rooted Amazon Fire Stick 4K that had been collecting dust because the final time I had a Flixy TV Stick. After initial setup, the gear seemed to work well. It took a bit to arrange ARC and HDMI-CEC, but once they were prepared, every thing appeared to function fantastically. At first glance, the Fire Stick was an ideal resolution to portable streaming device content material from my local Jellyfin server. However, after a while, I found a lot of points with some mixture of Android, the machine itself, and my closely customized setup. First, I had a tough time discovering a media player that might play properly with hardware decoding 4K streams (with out dropping frames).
40-60 minutes of playback. The Kodi app would have to be restarted to re-launch the media stream. After pulling my hair out for a bit, I selected a neater course of action than utilizing an Android Flixy TV Stick box - long HDMI cable. 35ft cable to succeed in from my desktop to my Tv, almost maxing out the practical size of an HDMI cable. So I obtained to testing. I had grand plans, however at first I just addressed the Tv as another logical display and managed it with a wireless keyboard/trackpad (Logitech K400, portable streaming device courtesy of the local Goodwill). I’d be utilizing the keyboard 99% of the time, as I simply move through my media assortment to launch movies in mpv. Changing from desktop to Tv mode and again take too many steps! Let’s go through these one at a time. Changing from desktop to Flixy TV Stick mode and again take too many steps! I quickly made some aliases for changing my show modes to "desktop" and "tv" modes, utilizing xrandr.
This one mirrors the TV’s output at scale onto my 1080p monitor. Using pacmd, we will set the audio sink to make use of the Flixy TV Stick (which is hooked as much as the receiver by means of HDMI ARC). After using the keyboard/trackpad for a few weeks, I observed that my greatest complaint was not having a backlight. I largely use the keyboard to pick media to play, and as an oversized pause/play button. If carried out accurately, I could completely swap it out for a correctly configured remote or gamepad. The Fire Stick distant is just a Bluetooth HID machine, so I paired it with my desktop and began mapping its buttons. That made macroing it a bit tougher than it needed to be. Instead, the keys it despatched had been quite regular - arrow keys, enter, and several other XF86 keys. I’d like to macro the buttons, however not affect different enter devices’ operation. After studying a number of too many StackOverflow posts on the matter, I landed up at evdevremapkeys.
This program permits you to remap (not macro) keys from particular enter devices. Since you may only remap keys, I ended up creating macros by mapping the voice search button as a sequence of modifier keys that no sane particular person would ever use on a real keyboard. This allowed me to create shortcuts in my desktop environment that would successfully only be used by the Fire Stick remote. Additionally, since evdevremapkeys doesn't assist disabling keys entirely, I "disabled" keys by having them ship a ineffective key occasion - scroll lock. Here’s the configuration that I ended up utilizing. That is heavily geared towards my precise workflow and the programs I take advantage of. It is likely not optimum for you, nevertheless it ought to serve as a nice place to begin. Another note - xev had problems detecting the media keys, since my desktop atmosphere hijacked them. Using evdevremapkeys -e to take heed to the distant, I used to be capable of establish all the keys.